To ride or not to ride, and what to do if you DO decide to ride
My lessons while learning to ride a motorcycle
Riding a motorcycle requires consideration and a certain amount of risk tolerance. I will never tell someone that they should or should not ride a motorcycle, that is up to them to decide. I know some riders that after one close call decided that it was too risky and quit. For me the
reward outweighs the risk. The quote that comes to my mind - 'Come on, you sons of bitches, do you want to live forever?' - Daniel Daly, US Marine. You should carefully consider whether or not you are willing to go through the process to become SAFE and proficient while learning how to ride (and if you should be riding), while having to listen to comments from friends and family about how dangerous it is to ride ...
Many motorcyclists will be more than happy to tell you how to operate your motorcycle / what you should wear / how you should act. They may not always have the facts straight so consider any information with your own lens, how you operate a motorcycle and with a grain of salt. Including my information. Ron Davis has a list of Really True Truths that I have also found to be true. Everybody gives you information that they have found to be true
for themselves but which may not be true for everybody. If you decide to ride you should never stop the learning process. Also think about what you want of the experience when you ride your motorcycle?
As with any new endeavour you will need to learn new jargon enabling you to talk to other riders in a coherent manner. The Motorcycle Safety Foundation (MSF) training books help start you with this new language. You can also sign up for a free basic training online course that Triumph motorcycles are offering.
Little Sue gives her reasons to ride and why each Each Ride is an Adventure The Dream That Many Will Not Understand
This is my list advantages and tradeoffs of riding a motorcycle
- Most importantly it is my Zen
- I heard a 'Hidden Brain' podcast 'One Head, Two Brains' that perfectly describes this Zen. After months / years learning the technical operation (left side, tactical) and slowly integrating looking ahead and taking in all of my environment (right brain, strategic) I now use my ENTIRE brain at the same time to ride. It absorbs me completely. And if I find my brain wandering to work or ANYTHING except piloting the Motorcycle then I am endangering myself.
- There is nothing better than to be on a long trip with a pillion to share the ride, but you need to make sure that they are willing to take the same risks that you are
- Commuting is much more enjoyable on a bike than it is in a car ... Even in the rain and cold
- In the United States you are allowed to use HOV lanes (there apparently are municipalities that don't understand the US code, some have corrected this error)
- Some jurisdictions let you filter or lane split again allowing you to bypass TONS of traffic
- Special parking for 'Motorcycles only' or reduced rates for parking a motorcycle, or when parking you can fit in ANY spot, you don't have to worry about how wide your bike is
- Better gas mileage, many motorcycles get about 40 MPG, which is better than most cars, but emit higher levels of other pollutants
- I have found that between maintenance and higher insurance that the cost of a car versus a motorcycle is probably a wash, example tires last 5,000 to 12,000 miles, car tires last quite a bit more
- Older bikes will, of course, require more maintenance and motorcycle engines / parts do not last as long as car parts do
- You will know much more about vehicles and mechanics that you ever would have had to know if you just drove a car
- In the riding community there are no strangers, just friends you haven't met. If you find someone that rides you will invariably have a long conversation about motorcycles
- Riding a motorcycle regularly increases cognitive functioning when compared to those who did not and also burns calories similar to exercising.
- Lastly ... When riding alone an amazing moment can happen. You join two bikers that are ahead of you. Everybody aligns to a zipper. Someone else then pulls in behind you into the zipper. You ride together for a distance then everybody splits off. Unlike cagers bikers know formations, everybody just gets along.
So ... You have decided to ride a motorcycle
First things first, learn the local laws and regulations. Do NOT just have a discussion with your buddies about what THEY did to get their license. The laws may have changed and it could end up being a deadly or expensive mistake:
That being said, I will share my "truths" with you, the most important is not to wait but to Ride. Just Ride. MOST importantly you MIGHT feel that all of the below information
is like drinking from a firehose. Don't be concerned if you don't get everything all at once. Keep reading this and anything else about the riding a motorcycle and it will all slowly soak in:
- ATGATT - --> All The Gear ALL The Time <--
- Note that I do NOT get compensated in any way for the below products. I include them here because I paid for them and use them. The links take you directly to a manufacturers site, no affiliate links here.
- Get good kit. Seriously. My gear cost ALMOST as much as my first bike.
- Get the BEST gear / safest you can afford, you never know when your skin will literally depend on that protection. Kevlar is IMHO the best, MotoPort USA has a really good selection of riding suits. For my riding suit I initially chose a all black suit (hey, had to be all black to be a motorcyclist, right? :-)) but found out that when riding in summer the sun shining down made it very hot. My current one is a shade of green, still Kevlar, but should be cooler for summer rides.
- If you choose to order from MotoPort USA just be sure to CAREFULLY measure yourself. It is worth the time it takes to carefully measure and include ALL these meaurements that they ask for. My suit fits perfectly
- Helmet Buying
- Buy a helmet. WEAR a helmet. You only have one brain. Even if you don't crack open your head you can STILL have Traumatic brain injury that could resemble 'shell shock'
- Go to a store to buy your helmet and get a good fit. A *little* snug is OK, but if it is TOO snug you may get a headache wearing it too long. The prices online are the same as at a store so you might as well take the time in a store with a sales persont to get the right fit
- Unfortunately as soon as you walk out of a store that helmet is yours, non-returnable. Do NOT buy a 'used' helmet, you don't know if it has been in a crash or not, the protection may be gone. If someone offers you their helmet, you *might* be able to send it to the manufacturer for them to evaluate to see if it is still OK, depends on the manufacturer.
- If the price is too true to be believed it is probably a fake helmet that will NOT protect you.
- Buy your helmet from companies that MEET THE COUNTRY LAWS and any local requirements. Otherwise it may cost you.
- I prefer full face helmets, while open face helmets give you more contact with your environment, in a crash they also expose more of your face to the road. Some people are too claustrophobic in a full face helmet and find the clamshell helmet easier to deal with, no matter what WEAR A HELMET
- While black helmets look REALLY cool, they also absorb sunlight. My black helmet would be hot to the touch if I left it on the bike in the sun. I had a silver helmet and it did not get hot, many people rave about the high vis yellow
- A visor with some kind of Pin Lock system works best for REDUCING fog, I have yet to find any kind of Fogx that will reduce visor fogging completely
- If you ride at night the new LED blue headlights that car manufacturers are installing are almost blinding. I found that the Pinlock system, which used to sell a yellow insert cut WAY down on beling blinded. It appears that these inserts have been discontinued but I can't find out why. The yellow lens DOES reduce the light coming through but I find that with the headlights I see more because my pupil isn't so dilated. If you order a Pinlock insert make SURE you get it for the correct lens (CNS-1,2 or 3 vs CWR-1, F, F2, Etc.)
- A built in sun shade / visor you can lower while riding is fantastic
- Depending on the noise level of your helmet you might need earplugs so you don't have hearing loss. I have a Shoei GT Air II and it is very quiet. Do your own research.
- Buy comms
- I have found that most riders use Sena, but talk to your riding friends and see what they use and make sure that the communications systems are compatible
- I have a Sena 30K. It fits (awkwardly) on my Shoei GT Air II but it does fit
- The other advantage of having a comms device is not only for a group ride but they also come with Bluetooth so that you can pair them to your phone to listen to music or receive phone calls or pair to your navigation device for long trips
- Get a camera - This will allow you to film trips around town if you want to review how you rode (or have proof of someone running into you) or film long trips & send to friends
- Buy good over the ankle boots that are made for motorcycle riding
- Motorcycle Boots have additional specifications that make them safer than regular boots depending on the type of riding you are going to do. A gear change pad / shift pad on TOP of the boot is a must, plus do you need waterproofing, what kind of fastening? Ventilation? Get a pair of good boots and you can figure out for your NEXT pair what was important
- I am a big guy and I have large (size 16 US, narrow) feet. Finding boots that are in my size that I can wear at work is difficult, all the ones I can buy look like I am going to the track
- I FINALLY found a Motorcycle Boot manufacturer, Gasolina Boots that had a pair of size 16 motorcycle boots
- Ashley at Gasolina worked with me and found a pair of Gasolina Classic Boots, 15 inch height, that fit perfectly. I am VERY happy
- Gloves
- Think about how you are going to ride. Just summer? Spring/Summer? All year? I have two pair of gloves, one pair for Summer, the other for Winter
- You will need gloves to protect your hands, for even simple things like dropping your bike at a stop when you lose your balance, I am glad I had mine on several times
- The European sizes SEEM to run a little small, it is probably best to go to a mortorcycle store to size your first pair
- Winter gloves USUALLY have a little rubber wiper on the left forefinger so you can wipe the rain off your visor
- There are gloves with heated elements you can plug into your bike to keep your hands warm during winter, I just have a good pair of gloves and deal with cold fingertips. NONE of the 'will keep your hands warm' gloves ever work for me
- Plastic bag inside your suit that holds your registration, insurance card, garage door opener, pen, misc things you need
- Buying Your First Bike
- Your first bike is your PRACTICE bike, one that you won't be afraid of getting dinged up or scraped. Something you can easily handle and get used to
- Don't worry about outgrowing your first bike. That is fine, you can get a bigger bike in a year or two
- You WILL drop your bike (not if) and if it is used / your practice bike you can concentrate more on your riding skills rather than worrying about dropping the bike
- Initially you may find riding buddies and salesmen are eager to get you on a bike that is too big. As you ride and research your 'Dream Bike' you may figure out it isn't so much a dream. Some bikes are known for being expensive to maintain.
- Start with a bike that is the right size for you
- When you are discussing / buying a bike try to find out the following if possible:
- If buying used from a dealership it might be hard to find the following unless they did maintenance at the dealership
- Maintenance History (did the owner change the oil on a regular basis? Brake fluid changed every 2 years?)
- List of additional / non-standard items the owner added
- What accidents has the bike been in, was it ever a total loss? Could happen because all the plastics were destroyed, no physical damage or the frame may actiually be bent, have a mechanic look at the bike
- What (if any) specifications / requirements do you have:
- Even for my first bike I wanted panniers / saddle bags to hold my briefcase / laptop so I could ride to work
- Are you going to ride on a highway eventually (can it go highway speeds?)
- Are you staying just on roads in your area or do you still want to take longer trips (how large is the gas tank)?
- Are you going offroad, do you need a high / knobby tire bike?
- Do you want to do some of your own maintenance? How complicated is the bike? (Get a Haynes bike manual on eBay and see how much work to change the oil is)
- Since this is your first practice bike you get to choose WHAT adventure you want to take, as with all bikes you learn what is good for you and what is useless (especially Farkle)
- An older bike with low mileage is not necessarily better, seals that are not regularly 'exercised' have dry seals, tires rot / get flat spots, no stabilizer in the gas while it was sitting, was it on a trickle charge while sitting (may need a new battery), oil not changed yearly, brake fluid (and other fluids) not changed every 2 years. Lots of things if a motorcycle sits too long. There may also be reasons why the bike was not ridden (see 'Gremlins' below)
- When buying a motorcycle that has a Salvage Title the motorcycle should be less expensive than a bike that doesn't have one. Motorcycle fairings are VERY expensive so it is possible that the bike has nothing wrong with it, just that someone had to take the time to replace the fairings or other bits on the bike. Or the bike could have been in an accident where the frame was bent. You don't know. My first bike had a salvage title, it worked OK but I may have just been lucky. Be sure to have a mechanic look at it and that it has a title in the state you are in if you get one.
- When I was first learning I chose an older bike so that I would not be afraid of dropping it. But before you ride it out of the dealership (or if you buy it from an individual) get ALL fluids changed (oil, brake fluid, EVERYTHING) as you don't know how old it is. Also look at the tire expiration date, you may need to change the tires.
- FIRST put on Frame Sliders - There are two kinds of riders in this world, those that have dropped their bike and those that WILL drop their bike. Cracked fairings are expensive to fix and easy to prevent
- YOU ARE INVISIBLE! No matter what gear you wear or how many lights you have on your bike people can look DIRECTLY at you on a motorcycle and STILL not see you because they are ONLY looking for a car and you are not a car. YOU ARE INVISIBLE! Repeat after me YOU ARE INVISIBLE (and yes, these are all videos taken from my shoulder camera)
- ATGATT - All The Gear All The Time, whether it is 35 DegF or 95 DegF. Dress for the slide, not for the ride.
- Find your people. Look for a group at work or in the local community that rides. Meet with them, talk about riding. When you get skills ask about going on a ride with them.
- If you can't afford really good gear, talk to your new motorcycle friends / associates. Someone is always upgrading their gear and may sell cheap or give it outright to you
- The more you ride the better you get
- It gets easier to remember all the things in class that they told you to do the more you practice, but at first:
- READ the owner's manual front to back
- TCLOCK - Make sure you have performed the pre-ride checklist. Remember to check tires when they are cold, oil when it is hot.
- ATGATT !!!!!!! Put it all on
- Start small, trips to the grocery store and back ... Turn off your turn signal after you make the turn ...
...My MOST exciting ride was when I got delivery of my first bike and had to go get gas
- Use your turn signals ALWAYS so that you get in good practice, help other drivers see what you are doing, but don't forget to turn them off after you have made your turn
- Expand your range as you get more comfortable
- Deserted parking lots (think High School or large employee parking lot on the weekend) are GREAT to practice turns and quick stops
- Practice all of the riding strategies you learned in the class (you DID take the class, correct?) BUT ... Understand that some of it may take time to learn / master
- Looking front, down and at the mirrors regularly ... And turn off your turn signal that is still blinking because you forgot to turn it off
- Look for animals / deer in the road, be wildlife aware ... If there is one deer there is a good chance that more will follow
- Covering your brake and clutch
- Looking left and right at EVERY intersection
- Good lines through the curves ... But:
- Be comfortable with slowing in a curve or changing which part of the road you are on in a curve in case something unexpected happens (remember you can drive on the shoulder if you have to)
- Vehicles coming at you SHOULD stay in their lane but don't always, be prepared for someone to encroach on your lane (or worse)
- If you can't see the exit then you should not be at the apex, don't hit the apex until you can see the exit
- If you are coming around a corner that has a bluff or cliff that drops off be ready for wind to hit you blowing you sideways in either direction
- Looking through the curve at your exit, not at what is right in front of you ...
- ... I personally use my eyes to scan back and forth from the exit of the curve to 'close up' to where I am to ensure I didn't miss any road debris (sand, small gravel)
- Lessons given in a Motorcycle Track day do not always apply to riding in normal traffic / on a road for all the above reasons. You have to have maneuvering room in case the path you planned to hit has debris / a vehicle / a huge pothole / slick manhole etc. On a track the course should be clean and everybody is going in the same direction.
- Quick stops ... Practice braking hard SAFELY ...
- Check your turn signal to make sure it isn't on (you get the idea)
- Avoiding "shiny" things in the rain - Tar Snakes, Manhole Covers, Painted Lines as they are slippery when wet
- If there is gravel or sand in the road ahead slow and straighten up the bike as much as you can
- The road can be colder than the air temperature especially in the shadows. If the air is above freezing the road may still have Rime ice or frost making the road slick
- A driver may look down the road, not see you (because you are a small --FAST MOVING-- target) and without looking again proceed to pull out in front of you because of persistence of vision in their brain
...When approaching a side street with a car look at the tires, if the tires are moving then the car is moving!
Now that you are comfortable with how the bike works NOW go out on the street. Again, trips around the neighborhood on streets that you are VERY familiar with. When I started I found a road in town that had a stop sign at the top of a hill that turned right onto a narrow 2 lane street. One I mastered that (holding a brake on an incline and turning right all at the same time) my confidence went up:
- Riding in the rain - get comfortable with it, you may get caught in a rainstorm
- You WILL develop muscle memory over time for taking curves, letting the clutch out and correctly twisting the throttle so that the engine doesn't die (and you don't twist the throttle TOO much to cause a wheelie), but it takes time for that muscle memory to get drilled into your brain. Just give it time, you will get there
- Practice (in a parking lot first) continuing to go straight while looking over your shoulder as far behind you as you can, this is to help look for cars in a 'merge' lane or when two roads come together at a 25 degree angle
- You should become a weather expert for where you live. I made a mistake and wore a just a hoodie under my outer motorcycle jacket on a day when it was 50 degrees Fahrenheit, when I reached 60 MPH it was noticeably colder and by the end of the ride my teeth were chattering
- Get to know your temperature comfort zones - Everybody is different
- Personally layers are good up to 70 Degrees F, above that a tee shirt under ATGATT works up to about 90+ degrees
- Above 90 Deg F or so the faster you go the hotter you get, keep that in mind
- If there is going to be cold or wet weather ahead pack layers in your panniers, conversely you can always take layers off if needed
- A light rain jacket will not only block rain but will also block the wind to help hold the heat in
- Usually my legs being cold don't bother me as much as my core body being cold
- Before going on a long ride with someone make sure that THEY have felt the different temperatures on short rides so that they dress appropriately
- I ride unless there is ice on the road ... BUT ... Liquid Deicers / Salt Brine is a liquid, your tires may lose traction when you ride on roads that have been deiced
- Remember - A car sees two lanes and a shoulder, you should see AT LEAST six lanes (two lanes in the direction you are going, two the other direction and two shoulders), to
protect yourself you can use ANY of the six lanes. All you have to do is explain to the police officer why you were driving on the opposite shoulder :-)
- You have THREE brakes, front ... rear ... and engine. ANY of your brakes can lock up a tire. Experience.
- Roundabouts:
- Looking right to ensure no stopped cars or cars entering the roundabout / your path
- Looking left to ensure no traffic
- Looking right at each exit to ensure NO traffic entering your lane (they missed seeing you ...)
- Slowing if a truck enters the roundabout, large trucks will use ALL lanes (including yours) when going around a roundabout
- Looking at your exit to ensure no stopped traffic / pedestrians, if you can't stop safely then keep going around the roundabout
- Riding in traffic:
- Keeping in the left track of your lane or the right track so that you can see what the traffic IN FRONT of the car you are behind is doing, are they stopping?
- Keeping out of the center of the lane because of all the debris, sand, dirt and oil that is on that lane
- Changing from the left track to the right track so that the car in front of you and behind you are reminded that you are on a motorcycle
- Practice dodging manhole covers so that when there IS something on the road you will feel comfortable riding around it
- When there IS something on the road look at where you WANT to go, not where the thing you want to avoid is, you will go where you are looking, skiers have the same problem of running into trees because they concentrate on the trees and not where they want to go
- Stop to the left side or right side of cars when stopped so that ...
- When you are stopped and you are looking forward (to see when the red light turns green) you are also looking in your mirrors at what is behind you to make sure that the cars behind are stopping and not running into you, if you are to one side or the other of the car in front of you you can move out of the way if a car behind you is not stopping
- Of course keep your brake and clutch covered with your fingers so that you can disengage the clutch or stop quicker if you need to
- When you ride with motorcycle buddies RIDE YOUR OWN RIDE! They make take corners faster than you are comfortable with or maneuvers that they have forgotten were difficult for new riders
- Read the MSF (Motorcycle Safety Foundation) Quick Tips for a group ride, that way you know what the hand signals are all about.
- Learn the Group Riding Best Practices. Everybody just needs to get along. You can give someone grief about their bike at the next stop, but respect for them while you are in a group ride.
- Make sure that you are fully committed to the ride before getting on a bike. Do not ride a bike when your mind is somewhere else. After many years of riding I started to let my mind wander while riding, thinking about work. I got a little TOO comfortable and wasn't paying attention. I paid the price, you can guess.
- Continuing education is important, continue to read books and articles on how to ride
- You will learn more about mechanics and how a motorcycle works that you EVER did about your car:
- When you first get your bike:
- Listen to the bike, learn what sounds it makes. These sounds should not change over time, if they do then you should look for a source
- The engine should turn over crisply (and continue to turn over crisply), if not check the battery or the starter to make sure that they are fine
- Sit on your bike and push it around with your legs, if you start to feel more resistance then something is amiss ... Like low tire pressure? (Experience I'm telling ya')
- Keep careful track of how much oil your bike burns / how much (if any) you need to add when you perform TCLOCK. Older engines burn more oil as they wear down (Maybe you need a engine overhaul?)
- If you have an older bike you may be fixing the previous owners problems / issues / poor maintenance problems. But a used bike is MUCH cheaper than a new one.
- Be sure to get regular maintenance done per your owners manual
- If you ever want to start an argument with other riders ask which oil is 'best' to use. VERY strong opinions
- I don't have the tools to do proper maintenance so I take it it a shop. I also know that I don't know the 'tricks and tips' to do it all correctly. Like 'You need to oil that O-Ring before you put in the plug'
- For major work even though it is more expensive a dealership is worth the price, if it isn't done correctly then you can take it back and get it rectified (as opposed to John down the street who 'Works on all KINDS of Motorcycles')
- Check out the work at the dealership also. You want to see a mix of 'Grey Beards' and 'Young Ones'. The Greybeards show the young ones technique and the young ones read the repair manuals to keep the old ones honest
- If you DO decide to get a local shop to fix / maintain your bike, check the work afterwards. Things like overfilling the oil - did they center the bike like the owners manual says when filling the oil and warm up the engine or did they just fill on the side stand with a cold engine? Check to make sure it has enough oil when warm, but not TOO much, too much oil hurts the bike also
- Little things like not knowing if a front wheel bearing is properly seated can cause a failure much sooner than it should happen. Experience is not free and you will pay a little more for that experience
- Change out the Oil per the owners manual OR every year if you ride less. Oil absorbs water and can acidify.
- When adding oil check the owner manual to see EXACTLY what kind of oil to add and when (usually when the engine is warmed up). Harley Davidson® requires their HD brand oil OR if you can't get that then an approved Diesel Engine oil. On newer engines you can use SYN3® synthetic oil. For newer BMW bikes, BMW Motorrad recommends BMW Motorrad ADVANTEC Ultimate oil. Again, read your owners manual.
- Change out the brake fluid every 2 years, same as above it absorbs water and can boil / cause brake issues
- IMHO motorcycles are not designed to be as maintenance free / reliable / latest technology as a car
Example: ABS on cars was on production vehicles in 1978, not on motorcycles until 1988
- Checking / adding air to the tire is probably what is required most, BUT in my experience tube tires hold pressure MUCH better than tubeless. I don't have to fill the Harley tube tires NEARLY as much as I did on the K1600.
- Tires - TLDR - Use the size and speed rated tires that the motorcycle designers specify, they have MANY more years experience and may have made choices you don't know about ... Your life may (literally) depend on it:
- When you put new tires on your bike ride conservatively for the first 100 or so miles. Tire manufactures use 'release agent'. You need to break your tires in before you start getting agressive.
- Tires do not last as long as they do on cars, you MAY get 9,000 or 10,000 miles out of your tires if kept properly inflated (less otherwise), some have claimed up to 15,000 miles but I have never gotten that much (but I am not a small person)
- The mileage on a tire is also dependent on how heavy your bike is (with you on it) and your riding style. MANY variables. Literally YMMV.
- Some people, 'darksiders', advocate using car tires for longer mileage. Everything I have read says that this is a very bad idea. The dynamics of a car versus a motorcycle, the liability you take on, and using something not designed for the job IMHO is not worth risking your life.
- Digging into this deeper Motorcycle tires have a 'soft' and 'hard' rubber compound - 'Dual compounds', the hard is for wear protection and the soft for grip when you are going through a curve. Motorcycle tire designers have been doing this for years and think of MANY things that car tire manufacturers don't need to think about.
- If you get a puncture in your tire don't just plug/patch the tire and assume you are good. Manufacturers have different guidance on what you should do, some say replace immediately. Worst case since you are on a motorcycle you should consider replacing as soon as possible. When a tire is punctured it no longer rated at the speed rating listed on the tire.
- Monitoring the temperature of the engine on a hot day is critical, pull off to the side of the road if you must
- Electrical system 'gremlins' are the hardest to figure out (see below for more on 'Gremlin Bells')
- When a mechanic suggests fixing something, go ahead and get it fixed ... You only have 2 wheels and very little between you and the road
- 'Listen' to your bike. If it has a harder time starting it may be a battery going dead, if it is leaking get it fixed, check the oil level, change brake fluid every 2 years
- Put your bike on a battery tender to ensure longer life of the battery, if it is taking longer and longer at night to charge you might need a new battery OR your stator or voltage regulator might be going bad.
- It does not matter whether your clutch is dry or oil bath, you still cannot abuse the clutch. Rev the engine too much with the clutch partially out and you will still burn it out
- Learn the lore about motorcycles (like the Gremlin Bell and
how to correctly position the bell), enjoy the brotherhood / sisterhood / discussions you will have with people you otherwise would never have said a word to
- Give the Motorcycle Wave to other riders, they are on the road with the same risk you have. If they have two wheels and an engine I wave. Doesn't matter what bike they ride to me.
- A Riding Club (RC) is different than a Motorcycle Club (MC). The RC is social and the MC requires more commitment. Many of the MC's are Men Only, but there are clubs that are women's clubs also. Look around, you may find a club to your taste. Personally I don't wish to devote as much time as many require to join the club.
- Motorcycle Clubs:
- When passing a motorcycle club you should get the attention of the last rider and ask PERMISSION to pass. This is for YOUR safety as much at theirs.
- Before you judge, learn about Motorcycle Clubs. Take a dive into the history and why they were formed.
- The term *I* use is 'Motorcycle Club', not 'gang'. There is a long history of ex military returning home and having a hard time integrating back into society. I respect their need to join a brotherhood or sisterhood, I personally do not feel that deep a need to join. As always with the motorcycle culture, don't judge.
- See a Motorcycle Club Three Piece patch for sale? Want to get a COOL 'biker gang tattoo'? I strongly suggest not wearing the patch or getting the tattoo. If you want to hang around a Motorcycle Club learn the basic protocols first (yes it is a long list).
- RCs versus MCs - Riding Clubs (RCs) are more of a social gathering / meet together group. Motorcycle Clubs generally require more time and energy commitment.
- Take a look at the Motorcycle Memes page. There is much truth there
Now that you are comfortable riding ...
Practice ... Practice ... Practice ... Learn ... Learn ... Learn
- The first three months of summer, June, July and August are known as 100 deadliest days of summer because teens with new licenses are out on the road.
- Ride ... Ride ... Ride ... I have a couple of roads that are twisties near me. I ride them regularly just to maintain my experience. Maintaining your experience is important. When out riding on the weekend I worry about 'weekend warriors' who may not ride very often and may not be as proficient as they think that they are.
- Keep up to date on Driving issues and what are the latest traffic problems.
- Most motorcyclists ride about 2,000 to 3,000 miles per year. Total miles driven in a car or other transportation is much higher, I prefer to get those miles on two wheels rather than 4 wheels.
- Add a 'Interest' item to your News Page specifically for motorcycles. Read it regularly, you will see the increase in accidents during summer warm riding days of summer. It also seems to be that about 40% are car drivers crossing in front of someone, 40% rider self inflicted and 20% 'other'
- You WILL continue to kill the engine or miss gears. Don't get frustrated. Don't let car drivers get you ruffled.
- When you are REALLY ready ride, ride the morning commute. Try to get a little highway riding. BE VERY CAREFUL! Morning drivers are NOT paying attention, DO NOT SEE YOU and are VERY careless, they are not awake and doing everything but drive. This is one of my more challenging rides. Evening commutes are a little better but drivers are still sometimes distracted.
- Morning commute or evening commute pay attention to the sun. Is the sun directly in the eyes of either you or the other person? Is it possible that they may not see you? Obviously also be careful and vigilant
- Riding in the cold weather allows you to maintain and even expand your riding skills but it also takes additional precautions:
- Cold weather riding gear is a must and is a source of great debate
- Heated grips are great but are not a complete answer, I generally have cold fingertips and just deal with it
- Waterproof and warm gloves are good but there will be days you ride to work and need them but by afternoon it is warm, carry two pairs of gloves or ???
- Dealing with the bulk of protection is again a tradeoff, I wear a waterproofed coat liner but just accept my pants will get soaked
- You can get gloves that are heated inside but do you want to wire yourself to the bike? Or get gloves with a built in battery? Or just deal with the cold?
- For helmet fogging the best choice I have found is the Pinlock system, it PRETTY much keeps the fog off the visor, sometimes I have to crack the visor at slow speeds to clear the fog
- It is all tradeoffs and what YOU prefer
- There are those own winter experiences, always good to hear others experience.
- If the temperature is at or near freezing and the temperature is rising, the road temperature can be colder than the air temperature. Freezing fog or roads that aren't completely dry may have black ice that has formed on the road that you can't see
- My limits are no ice or snow buildup in the road (obviously) and temperatures at or above 40 Degrees F, but even that 40 Deg F you MUST be carful about shaded areas that could be colder and have frost buildup
- When trees drop leaves and they get wet they are slick. In general take corners with more caution than in the summer months
- When municipalities put salt and sand on the roads to prevent ice this also causes cornering on those roads to be more difficult, again take it slower so that you don't slide out.
- Your tires are colder which equates to lower friction which affects your cornering ability and stopping ability, this can cause a low side crash if you try to take a corner too hard with cold tires
- Again, in general, make less aggressive moves on the roads than you would in the summer months ... But getting practice in during winter helps your confidence in case you DO get caught in something like a hail or bad rain storm in the middle of summer
- Here are some additional Winter Riding tips.
- If you decide not to ride in the cold weather then prep your bike and winterize before storing it for any length of time.
- I video tape my rides for the trips that I take. If you do the same be sure NOT to upload videos of bad behaviour, you might find a police officer at your door.
Riding with a Pillion
Riding with a passenger(or pillion) takes additional skills, care and consideration.
- Most important is to keep your pillion happy ... If the Pillion isn't happy then NOBODY is happy (to rework a common saying)
- Be sure to understand how to ride with a passenger responsibly
- You can also talk to your passenger about what is expected of them.
- DO NOT spook your passenger with moves you may be comfortable with but they are not, example taking a corner too deep or performing a wheelie
- Think about whether or not to put helmet to helmet comms in. As the person responsible for control would your pillion talking distract you or would it be better for both of you?
...Lots of options, I have Sena for compatibility reasons but there are MANY brands at MANY price points
- Is your pillion able to take some discomfort? As has been said on a motorcycle you are usually on either side of uncomfortable, too cold or too hot (or too wet). Unless 'the ride' is worth it to them they may not be as enthusiatic as you are about trips on the motorcycle
- In the discussion about discomfort, how many days in a row can your pillion ride before they need a rest day? A day to be completely off the bike (to hike, be a tourist, etc.). This is a discussion that may evolve over time.
- Does your pillion enjoy the scenery passing by and the Zen / peace? Or are they just bored and passing time with you because it is what YOU want to do. Maybe they could fly to your destination and take quick day trips. You could travel by bike, they could fly to the airport and just rent a car and you both can drive around. Especially useful if your bike overheats, the traffic is slow (tourist areas / national parks), and the destination is hot
- We know the truism of 'it is not a matter of IF you will drop the bike but WHEN you will drop the bike'. If your pillion is not willing to ever take a chance thet the bike will drop or has anxiety about what could happen to them in an accident you should discuss and address that. They have to have the same risk tolerance that you do
- In the end the tradeoffs for what you enjoy and what your pillion is willing to give / risk may not be worth it. Only you and your pillion can make that decision
Motorcycle Gear Care and Feeding
- Helmet Care
- Your helmet has an expiration date, typically 7 years from its manufacture (read the documentation for specifics)
- Your visor is made out of polycarbonate generally with a UV filter (you shouldn't get a sunburn). Read the manufacturers guidance to clean
- Since your visor IS made out of polycarbonate do NOT use the 'original Rain-X', it will fog the visor. There is a 'Rain-X Platic' I am ordering to see how it works, we will see. I have generally been dissapointed in any kind of anti-fog or anti-rain products. Likewise Windex will also fog your visor and windscreen
- Some manufactures offer a free impact and safety inspection service for their helmet. The 'drop it once and throw the helmet away' may not apply, send it in for inspection.
- When I wash my jacket and pants I spray on 303 Fabric Guard to help protect and shed water. Personally I don't like dealing with my pants rain liner. I just get wet to the degree the water repellant doesn't work.
- Buy your pants and jacket from VERY reputable company. I really like my MotoPort jacket and pants. It gives me peace of mind, I am not worrying about what happens when I drop the bike. Of course the better the equipment the more expensive. BUT just because equipment is expensive doesn't mean it is better.
- Speaking of pants, I am not a huge fan of only having on only Kevlar Jeans. No padding, at best bruises if you slam into something. But if you are convinced you want some read up on tests that they have performed.
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